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Coastal sediment transport : ウィキペディア英語版
Coastal sediment transport
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Coastal sediment transport (a subset of sediment transport) is the interaction of coastal land forms to various complex interactions of physical processes.〔Komar, Paul D. Crc Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. Crc Series in Marine Science. Boca Raton, Fla.: CRC Press, 1983. Print.〕〔Bird, E. C. F. Coasts. An Introduction to Systematic Geomorphology,. Cambridge, Mass.,: M.I.T. Press, 1969. Print.〕 The primary agent in coastal sediment transport is wave activity (see Wind wave), followed by tides and storm surge (see Tide and Storm surge), and near shore currents (see Sea#Currents) .〔 Wind-generated waves play a key role in the transfer of energy from the open ocean to the coastlines.〔 In addition to the physical processes acting upon the shore, the size distribution of the sediment is a critical determination for how the beach will change (see Grain size determination). These various interactions generate a wide variety of beaches. (see Beach). Other than the interactions between coastal land forms and physical processes there is also the addition of modification of these landforms through anthropogenic sources (see human modifications). Some of the anthropogenic sources of modification have been put in place to halt erosion or prevent harbors from filling up with sediment.〔 In order to assist community planners, local governments, and national governments a variety of models have been developed to predict the changes of beach sediment transport at coastal locations. Typically, during large wave events, the sediment gets transported off the beach face a deposited offshore generating a sandbar. Once the significant wave event has diminished, the sediment then gets slowly transported back onshore.〔
== History ==

In the mid-1970s a significant amount of attention was paid to coastal sediment transport. In part, due to the National Sea Grant College Program and the U.S. Congress Mandated Sea Grant Act of 1976. One of the research areas included "''the development and the experimental verification of hydrodynamic laws governing the transport of marine sediments in the flow fields occurring in coastal waters.''" 〔 From this request for research, the Office of Sea Grant reviewed, accepted, and funded the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study (NSTS). Due to unforeseen complications the NSTS conducted only two major field experiments and a validation experiment.〔 This was a significant contribution to the field of coastal sediment transport and helped initialize a great deal of future research.

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